ATAXI moves slowly down Saadoon Street, which runs through downtown Baghdad. When hailed, the driver moves his head up and down several times to size up the prospective passenger. The taxi driver did not immediately open the door when this TEMPO reporter approached. He even asked in a semi-admonishing tone, Are you Japanese or Korean, or what? I was taken aback and hastily replied, I am a reporter, a Muslim from Indonesia.

After the driver did not