IT is still drizzling in the village after a night-long downpour. But on this rainy morning Ngadiyo is already busy working on his earthenware. All of those gerabah (earthenware) have been made on order from Europe, Ngadiyo says as he points to a Buddhas head, a little horse the size of a chicken, and a jug the size of a child, just taken out of the kiln.

A rolled cigarette in the corner of his mouth, his skeletal legs covered by a pair of short p