ONE by one we came to the restaurant. First, me and Jaroni Soerjomartono. The host and owner of the restaurant, Maman Abdurrahman, welcomed us in his white apron. Let me change first, he said as he excused himself out of the clean and neatly arranged 100-square-meter dining area into the backroom. A sign at the entrance announced the place as Sate Indonsk Speciality. Night had just fallen on Hradany in Prague, capital of the Czech Republic, when