THE day was still very young when Hat Daq rose from his sleep. The heavy rain overnight caused a freezing temperature in the village of Nehas Liah Bnig, Muara Wahu, 340 kilometers north of Samarinda, East Kalimantan. The cold penetrated the bones but it did not dampen the spirit of the 66-year-old man.

In his house on stilts, Hat Daq started packing. Into a rattan bag, he put some rice, smoked fish, and three T-shirts. He slipped a cleaver into hi