I Wayan Surenta, 40, looked radiant. He was happy he had been able to take part in (financing) the ngaben crematory ritual of his dead relatives. He stayed up several nights, without showing signs of fatigue. He works as an ojek (motorcycle taxi) driver in Pujungan village. With his motorbike, he's ready to take you through the village roads surrounded by coffee plantations, up to the mountains. His income is, to be sure, a small one.

Toge