PUJUNGAN village in Tabanan, has two stories that are always told to visitors. The villagers will tell you about coffee, their major crop, and they will regale you with stories about the kewingitan (supernatural beings).

One late afternoon, Ida Pandita Istri Mpu Manik Geni sat in a modest hut by a rice field, drinking coffee. "The Calon Arang ritual should not be performed here," she said emphatically, a serious expression on his