It's 12 noon, time for rest and lunch. Mohamad Saleh hurriedly pedals his old bicycle to the nearest food stall. He's starving. He has taken in only a slice of bread and a cup of black tea since morning.

At the food stall the 51-year-old Saleh orders cheap fare—just two slices of bread and a plate of bland potato curry with bits of meat for 1,000 Afghani (about Rp1,000). "This is my lunch for the day," says Saleh.

Saleh has sp