KALIJODO, the red-light riverside area in Tambora, West Jakarta for people of the middle and lower classes that the Jakarta administration closed last week, was never deserted even on a pitch-dark night. Early last week—two days before the closure of this spot—TEMPO "roamed" the place and heard the giggles of women plus the yelling of gamblers buying illegal tote lottery.

"Want to play?" asked Sri Lestari, 23, a hooker or, to use a more