THE sun had just set in the west as two women took a becak (pedicab) heading toward the Kanoman Palace in Cirebon, West Java. About 10 meters from the palace gate, the guard on duty, Mochammad Rais, ran out to open the door. Smiling and bowing, Rais opened the gate and let the becak and the women carrying a bagful of vegetables in.

Anyone witnessing such a scene for the first time would wonder. A becak entering the palace ground? But he would unde