The Changing Face of Alun-Alun

It used to be an alun-alun, a vast courtyard of the Kanoman Palace. Today, it’s a shabby, noisy marketplace—a picture of the decline of the once-prosperous kingdom in Cirebon.

September 28, 2004

HUNDREDS of people mill around like an army of ants within the narrow alleyways of the market where vendors offer all kinds of commodities: jambu kelutuk (guavas), squid, salt, clothing. The air is filled with all sorts of odors: sweet-smelling snacks, pungent spices, and rotting fish. Everywhere hawkers compete for shoppers’ attention, shouting and yelling in a cacophony of deafening noises as dangdut music blaring from all sides adds to t

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