THE old Land Rover sped through the dense forests of Arnhem Land in Australia’s Northern Territory one afternoon last August. At the wheel was Datjing Burarrwanga, smoking and enjoying the tune sung over the car radio by Bob Marley: “One love, one heart…. Let’s get together and feel all right… hear the children crying.”

Suddenly everyone was jolted by the cry of a child squeezed between passengers as the over