PLANT stacks are no longer smoking. Machinery is silent, and showing signs of rust—a symbol of the decline of the glory days of giant international-scale industries in Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam. But from the top of the smokestacks, green hamlets stretch out as far as the eye can see: the will to survive will never disappear from the hearts of the population.

Take Ulee Madon village. In the still of nature, the hum of machinery and sounds of