AT the far end of the bow, Sudirman was humming a song. His voice echoed in the waves that crashed on the sides of the Borobudur as it sped across the Java Sea. The skies that Tuesday night two weeks ago were clear with stars twinkling deep in the heavens. The old moon cast a soft light dancing on the rolling seas. Im singing to entertain myself, said the 31-year-old from Pulau Pagerungan Kecil, a small island off the coast of Madura.

The brown-sk