THE two-story house is said to be the largest in the Polygon Housing Complex in Palembang. It recently appeared even grander thanks to the line of luxury cars parked in the front yard of the house. In mid-September, the house seemed to come alive because its owner was holding a celebration: the daughter of the family was getting engaged.

The joyful applause and shouting of that day contrasted greatly with the sadness felt there five years ago. The