The moon could not be seen that night. A cold breeze blew. It was the last week of February, and it looked like it might rain at any moment. As it darkened, Bonafacius Gebze lit a lamp and hung it near the door of his house. This former Kampung Zanegi head in Animha District, Merauke Regency, Papua, began chewing betel palm leaf and began his story.

"A dark moon like this is good for hunting deer and fowl," he said.

Pak Bon, as he is usually address