WANT to talk at leisure with Sutiyoso, Governor of Jakarta, without hassle? Try this. Come to his official residence on Jalan Diponegoro in Central Jakarta after office hours. Bring along a recorder and several cassettes. All set. Now ask him to talk about his successes in the management of the city in times of crisis. And, voila! You'll be surprised to find how the governor suddenly turns into a man you used to talk to in the kampung, a neig