THE kelotok boat moves leisurely down the Barito River. It cannot go faster because it's heavily loaded with barrels of fuel, five passengers, and jars of fresh fish that are ready to be sold at the market.

That means good fortune. "I didn't dream that I would have my own kelotok," says Sandi, a resident of Simpang Telo. Sandi bought his boat with a loan from Yayasan Keanekaragaman Hayati (Kehati), a non-governmental organization co