JUSUF Kalla remembers well his previous visit to the offices of Tempo magazine. It was five years ago, before the presidential election, he came as Chairman of Golkar and had just been nominated as the running mate of presidential candidate Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono.

Last Monday, with tighter security than five years ago—although not as tight for a vice president of a nation—he came back for another visit to Tempo’s offices in Central Jakar