THERE is an area in the heart of Kabul untouched by the war in Afghanistan. It's an area where the Afghan royal family once lived. To enter the complex one has to navigate a maze of 1-meter tall concrete cylinders, slowly zigzagging in and out of the roadblocks. At the end of the road, heavily armed soldiers check each and every vehicle that passes through. Only vehicles painted white and bearing the United Nations (UN) logo and those