In the back garden of the Cendana residence, somewhere in Central Jakarta, one morning in March, stood an elderly man, clad in a white Muslim shirt, dark trousers and sandals. The silver hair and deep lines etched into his face indicated his 81 years, although he appeared to be quite healthy. The man, the once-famous Suharto, was waiting for the arrival of a guest.

That guest, Kiai Haji Yusuf Hasyim, head of the Tebu Ireng Pesantren (Islamic bo