COLD chilled the bones in Entikong at dawn two weeks ago on Thursday. However, the little town of Balai Karangan subdistrict, Sanggau regency, West Kalimantan, was awakened by the roaring buses that had just arrived from Pontianak, which stopped before the border post. The passengers alighted and sought a full breakfast or just a sip of coffee, to wait for the border gate to be opened.

Within the past few years, the border post of Entikong (I