Two weeks ago, two youths with menacing looks approached as Tempo was busy interviewing an oil palm grower in Air Hitam Village, near Tesso Nilo National Park, Riau.

"Where do you intelligence people come from?" one youngster called Edi demanded to know. "Never try to stir things up over here!"

The youths demanded to see IDs. After noting down reporters' names and the names of the two local fixers, Edi took photos with his smart phone. "Your arrival