IT wasn’t easy to forget Sarajevo.­ I pulled up my overcoat as I looked down on the Cemerska Hills through the door of the plane which was taking me to Sarajevo four autumns ago.

Not so long ago the capital of Bosnia-Herzegovina, which topographically looks like a wok—a city surrounded by hills—was a battleground, a Kurusetra filled with anger and hatred as its citizens fought one another.

Located in the Balkan peninsula, Sarajevo was in