These days getting to Maluku does not present quite the same hazards. Technically it is only a two-hour plane ride from Surabaya. But having travelled those two hours you find yourself in a place with a completely new set of rules. When you are talking island-time hills become mountains, and seas oceans. Islands that look like specks on a map swell up to gargantuan obstacles.

Theoretically, getting around Maluku is all so simple. There are plan