THE measurement has always been fixed and precise, day in day out: three teaspoonfuls of coffee powder and a half to one teaspoonful of sugar in a mug, followed by boiling water. The fragrant and powerful aroma of powdered coffee (kopi tubruk) can be smelled at once. The mixture is stirred, and of course, enjoyed.

Laksmi Pamuntjak begins her day always with that ritual. "Without a cup of coffee, I don't feel like living yet," says the author