THAT morning the sea had lost its blue. The cloudy, overcast sky had driven away the blue and replaced it with a dark grey. Fortunately Jakarta Bay did not appear to be totally gloomy. A generous breeze was blowing; likely to push along the yachts waiting with their sails unfurled.

Theodoor Bakker, 51, appeared full of enthusiasm. "Great, this is a good breeze," he said. The Dutchman quickly readied his yacht, Kersey, which was sti