REMAINS of burnt incense, some red roses and kretek cigarette butts lie all over the place. The three tombstones in the graveyard have just witnessed hundreds of pilgrims from around the village of Windusabrang paying homage to three venerated figures buried on the slope of Mt. Merapi in Magelang, Central Java.

The place is crowded with pilgrims especially on Jumat Pahing, the second day of the Javanese week, and in Suro, the first month of the Ja