ON leafy Jalan Dadali in the Warung Jambu district of dear, rainy Bogor stands a respectable house-turned-office belonging to the NGO Burung Indonesia, the local affiliate of the UK-based conservation group Birdlife International.

Even a halfwit can see from the state of Indonesia’s birdlife that this NGO has an uphill struggle. The commerce in birds for the damnable pet trade is huge. Bird markets flourish all across the country and lowly ven