IT was the Nyepi public holiday two weeks ago when the former chief editor of Pedoman began experiencing difficulties in breathing. A man emerged from the house: “Please, wait while Bapak is receiving his medication.”

Rosihan now lives with an oxygen tank always near him; at home there are in fact two oxygen tanks always close by. “Well, now I’m finally ready. So what shall we talk about next?” he asked calmly as though oxygen were no