FOR the past two weeks, Haji Fadlil, 60, has preferred to live aboard his barge. The hissing sound of an aluminum frying pan can be heard from the back of the boat. Raihana, Fadlil's wife, is busy boiling rice cakes. Three children play on a mattress, messing up the bedcovers. Their pleasant laughter is a sort of magic spell which melts away the sorrow. It is almost dark outside. A pair of seagulls chase each other above the foamy waves of th