TARMIJEM, the elderly woman who lay on a ragged mattress on the floor of a frame house in Tenggulun village, East Java, looked feeble and weak. Tempo reporters, visiting her in late October, addressed her several times, but she didnt respond. Sinten nggih (Who are you)? the 72-year-old finally responded. She rose and put on her Muslim headscarf to cover her grey hair. When told that this was not the first time the magazines reporter had visited h