THE wooden boat rocked gently, moved by the waves in the mid-morning drizzle. The outboard motor roared as it fought the current. Twenty passengers, including Tempo, were chilled by the strong winds. In the distance, large rocks were visible, scattered along the shores of Kalimantan. This is Tanjung Datu, around 7 kilometers from the village of Temajuk in the subdistrict of Paloh, Sambas, West Kalimantan.

Most of the boats passengers are crewmembe