If a woman wants to visit Aceh in the near future, she had better be prepared to pack a headscarf or two. From December 19, whether or not she is a Muslim and whether or not she is Acehnese, she will be obliged to cover her head in public. For most Acehnese women it will not make much difference. There is already an unwritten rule that women must respect the rules of Islam in the so-called Verandah of Mecca. Few local girls would think of taking