ON Tuesday at dusk it was drizzling in the village of Manis Lor, Jalaksana subdistrict, Kuningan regency, West Java. Wet colorful umbrellas were placed casually in front of the veranda of a house. Totok, a thin man in his 30s, sat there alone, smoking.

“Pak Kulman is over there,” he said motioning with his face. Leading Tempo in the direction motioned, he told us that the umbrellas belonged to villagers who were performing a dusk prayer in h