THE banners appear like a rainbow, flying by the Pantee Perak bridge over the Krueng Aceh River. In other corners of the town of Banda Aceh there are more colorful banners depicting the names or logos of political parties.

The signing of the Helsinki Accord three years ago—thus ending the 30-year conflict between the Free Aceh Movement and the Indonesian government—opened the way for the growth of local political parties in Aceh. Following