BARE to the waist, 40-year-old Muhammad Hasymi Munahar sits cross-legged on a plaited mat. A moment later, he pours some cajeput and coconut oil on to the palms of his hands, and then begins massaging 19-year-old Ita Purnamasari’s calf. “It looks like there’s a hormonal problem. You like eating bakso (meat-ball noodle soup), yes?” he asks. The patient nods. Behind Ita five other people queue on the porch of the resident from Magersari, Mo