MISFAR extends his gaze over the clear waters of Lake Poso. The stone slipway can be seen clearly from the wooden pier. Living here in Tentena, Misfar has enjoyed views like this since 1958, when he first set foot in the city of North Pamona, Central Sulawesi.

This 72-year-old was once a newcomer to Tentena. He was born in Purworejo, Central Java. Misfar is a strict Muslim, unlike most of Tentena's residents. After the dawn prayers he heads