ITS a humid evening on the slopes of Kotopanjang Reservoir. Dozens of men sit in rows beneath the rubber trees. They are waiting for the beams of cut wood taken by raft from the forests on the sides of the reservoir. When the raft draws near, they snatch away at it, drag the wood off, carry it shoulder-high, then lift it onto the back of the truck waiting on the side of the road.

In one day I at most earn Rp5,000, said Syarifudin, 53, a white-hair