FIVE Indonesian Army solders sat at a coffee shop in Indrapuri, nervously watching villagers pass by. Some exchanged greetings with the passersby. The soldiers had reason to be apprehensive. They were unarmed. "Honestly speaking, we are nervous," said Private First Class Achmad Madon. "But what else can we do? We have orders to obey."

Indrapuri is a town in the district of Aceh Besar located about 25 kilometers east of Banda Aceh, the provinci