THE process of voter registration and census taking in Indonesia—among other things for the 2004 General Election preparations—appears to be dragging its feet. By last week the Census Takers were only just able to gather 65 percent of the entire census bloc, yet the deadline for the national poll is the end of April. The constraints are varied, among them a disturbing tale from the province of Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam, the region of