Ambon today is a city of a thousand monuments. Ruins of houses, shops, prayer halls throughout the city look like eternalizing bitter memories of a long conflict that began four years ago. It's in those ruins that now Ambon's residents are rearranging their lives, which they fondly wish will be regular and peaceful.

The city no longer looks as haunted as in the recent past when the sounds of shooting never stopped even for a day. Admittedly,