THE waves were still raging wild when we finally made it to Calang Bay that afternoon. For a full eight hours, our vessel was tossed by the waves, all the way on our trip from Lamno to Calang. The moment we set foot on the brownish mud-covered beach, a rancid smell greeted us. The smell of decomposing dead bodies... Right on the beach, two marines, speaking in a heavy Javanese accent, warmly welcomed us.

But, wait! Calang that came to our si