FOUR flat iron bars coated with anti-corrosion paint stood in pyramid fashion bearing a half-square-meter iron sheet at the top. On one side of the sheeting is written "Malaysian Territory," on the other side "Indonesian Territory."

Erected on the bank of a small river by the side of a dirt road, the signpost twice the height of an adult barely caught my attention. I was attracted more to the sight of a row of dimly ligh