Last Friday in the Kramat Raya area of the capital, Kiai (Muslim scholar) Hasyim Muzadi was on his back in the Nahdlatul Ulama (NU) National Committee Building following the days' prayers. The NU Chairman appeared ill and asked his aide to give him a traditional treatment against a cold—mengeroki, during which the skin of one's back is scraped with a coin dipped in coconut oil. Hasyim could not lie still, however, and stood up no less t