If there is one thing common to all presidents of this country, perhaps it is the fact that they have all felt uneasy about stepping down. Sukarno, Suharto and Habibie all left it too late and many people are now wondering if the same will be true of President Abdurrahman Wahid.

It is not so easy to answer this question. Among those who feel they know him well—and because of this call him Gus Dur—the grandfather of the nation is a na