TWO lines of women donning their charming traditional costumes and necklaces of colorful beads were ready to welcome guests that warm morning. The strong sun of eastern Indonesia began to penetrate the leafy trees along the path leading to Watublapi village. Respectfully, one of them came forward. She sprinkled some water on one of the guests with a leaf and then placed a shawl round his shoulders. Smiling hospitably and stamping their foot, they