IT was past nine in the morning. Abdul Gafur was still in his blue pajamas and the sweet smell of a balmy ointment still followed him as he stepped out to open the door at his house in the exclusive Menteng residential area of Central Jakarta last Friday. The 68-year-old looked unkempt, his hair uncombed and his face unwashed.

Gafur’s appearance contrasted sharply with the photographs hanging on the walls of the house. In one photograph taken