DESPITE the five-hour wait in the small and crowded domestic terminal at Timika airport in Papua, the prospect of flying into Enarotali, the valley separating the districts of Paniai and Nabire, filled me with excitement. After all, just last April a war between the Mee and Moni tribes had broken out in this area. The two warring parties shot arrows at each other, despite the presence of policemen trying to stop the conflict. No deaths were re