GAZING at the patches of mist through the Alam Indah bus windows at the end of September 2008 made my time of imagination seemingly suspended. At dawn, amid the tranquility of an artificial lake around the statue of Pong Tiku, a hero of Toraja, with Dutch-heritage Sion I Church and Mt Buntu Burake (1,094 meters above sea level) in the background, I was entering Makale, the capital of Tana Toraja regency. Makale, dubbed the “city of a thousand c