ONE clear afternoon, Filisa Gulo, 60, was sitting relaxing in the porch of his house. “Yaahowu,” he greeted Tempo while chewing the betel-nut. Tempo paid a visit to his house in Onolimburaya village, Mandrehe subdistrict, two weeks ago. Practically Filisa could not speak Indonesian. In that afternoon talk, Maniba Waruwu, Filisa’s daughter-in-law, acted as an interpreter.

Filisa’s memory tried to retrieve his past experience when he was s